30th August 2009: Kitesurfing Lesson Four

It's my last weekend in NZ and I was supposed to be packing up the flat. The weather this morning was good though, so I couldn't resist one last kitesurfing lesson before I head back to the start of a UK winter.

The wind was a bit light early on, and I was stuggling to get moving. When you're learning you tend to drift downwind as you're trying to get going, and then you have to trudge back up though waist deep water with a massive kite pulling you the other way. That isn't much fun.

The wind filled in a bit later, and you know what? I can now kite surf! I was able to blast back and forth quite a few times and even stay upwind. The feeling, when you get it right, is truly awesome. You lean back against the power of the kite and just fly. It's amazingly fast, and almost effortless. The only comparison I can make is that it's a bit like sailing a fast dinghy with a big spinnaker up - I guess that's why spinnakers are often called "kites".

I definitely need to get more into this sport when I get back to the UK...

If anyone's reading this and looking for kitesurfing instruction in the Auckland area, I would definitely recommend Reuben at Wings & Waves.

22nd-23rd August 2009: Snowboarding on Mount Ruapehu

I'm fast running out of weekends before I go home, but Ken was insistent on a trip down to Mount Ruapehu for some snowboarding. Obviously I had to keep him company, so I agreed to go too.

Sophie and I had visited the Turoa ski area in October last year, so this time we headed to Whakapapa, on the other side of the volcano. I'm not sure how fair the comparison is, but Ken's and my impressions were that it's nowhere near as good as the stuff around Queenstown. It's certainly a lot bigger, with 10+ lifts instead of 2-3, but the snow quality wasn't as good and it was packed with too many people. We spent a lot of time queueing for aged and slow lifts, and then avoiding others on the slopes.

Mount Ruapehu

Still, we had a really good time. It wasn't busy the whole time and when the clouds cleared the views of the surroundings and Ngauruhoe in particular were fantastic. Skiing on an active volcano also adds a certain something to the day!

Ngauruhoe, from the road to Whakapapa

On Saturday night we headed to a busy bar to watch the Tri Nations All Blacks-Wallabies game. It turned out to be a bit of a thriller which the Kiwis won 19-18 with a last-minute penalty. I've definitely become a bit of an All Blacks fan since coming here: the locals take it so seriously it's hard not to get dragged in. Was it inevitable?

9th August 2009: Kitesurfing Lesson Three

I had another kitesurfing lesson on Sunday. This time I managed to stay upright for decent periods and almost stay upwind, quite a big improvement on last time.

I'm definitely getting the hang of it. The speed you can travel at is quite amazing. I'd guess it's 15-20 knots (fast over water), but when you get it right it's almost effortless - the harness takes all the load and you just blast along.

The most important thing I learnt this time is that you really have to watch the kite the whole time, not your feet. Otherwise, the kite crashes and shortly afterwards you crash too, usually resulting in sea water imbibage.

Kitesurfing has quite a reputation for being a dangerous sport, but having done it a few times I reckon it's actually probably safer than, say, snowboarding. As I understand it, the design of the kites made some big steps forwards a few years ago - the newer bow kites can be completely de-powered by simply letting go. It's clearly possible to get yourself in trouble, but following the safety instructions you get from lessons probably makes it pretty safe.

30th July - 5th August 2009: Queenstown

My employer, CHP Consulting, organises annual conferences where we get together to catch up, find out what the company's plans are and have some fun. Last year, the regional conference was in Port Douglas, Australia. This year everyone came to Queenstown, on the South Island of New Zealand.

Queenstown is the capital of adventure tourism in NZ and has the widest selection of crazy activities that I have ever seen in one place. At this time of year, it concentrates on winter sports, with four significant ski areas within reach (Coronet Peak, The Remarkables, Cardrona and Treble Cone). After the morning conference, we headed up to the Remarkables, where we all spent an hour snow tubing. This was entertaining, although to many of us it seemed like a bit of waste of valuable ski-resort time.

After the conference I stuck around in Queenstown with Ken, Tom and Amy for 5 days' snowboarding. I've been lucky enough to go to many of France's best ski resorts, as well as some American ones, so it's interesting to compare how New Zealand does things.

The biggest difference is scale. Most of these areas have two lifts, three at most. In comparison, Val d'Isère claims 94 on its website. Despite this, we didn't get bored. Many of the slopes were wide and over open terrain with no trees, so you could pick your own route down. It's also nice to get to know slopes well - where the jumps are, etc.

Getting to the resorts is different too - you have to drive through the valleys, before turning sharply uphill and ascending quickly to the snow-line. No ski-in-ski-out luxury here. The roads up are also mostly unsealed, which become entertainingly trecherous when you reach the snow. I am now an expert at the messy business of fitting and removing snow chains!

Of our 5 days, 3 had excellent conditions, with nightly fresh powder and sunshine. I don't know whether this is how it always works down there, but I was certainly impressed. The only dissapointment was our day at Treble Cone - many people had raved about it, but heavy wet snow and strong winds meant half the resort was closed and the rest wasn't much fun. It did seem to have potential though: huge open slopes, steep sections and loads of natural gullies. One for next time!

14th June 2009: Kitesurfing Lesson Two

I had my first kitesurfing lesson a couple of weeks ago. My ambition this time was to get up onto the board. I managed that, but I've got a very long way to go until I can call myself competent!

I had to spent another hour or so body-dragging myself around behind the kite before the instructor let me have a go with a board too. I thought that I was getting pretty good at flying the thing (hey, it's just a kite!) but once you've got to think about flying the kite as well as balancing yourself on the board, things get a little trickier. You could say I was a touch over confident.

After a few face-plants (it's only water), I managed a few times to stay on the board for around 10 seconds before stacking it. Mostly I was alternating between sinking and being launched skywards, not quite how I remember those guys on the videos doing it. It seems you've got to get the kite maintain a smooth power delivery, without really looking at it. Not easy.

While I was drinking seawater, the instructor was teaching the more advanced students how to jump. He could effortlessly lift himself 5m into the air, before landing and blasting off in a different direction. And he made it look so easy!

17th May 2009: Kitesurfing

I've been meaning to have a go at kitesurfing for years and I thought that, coming to Auckland for a year, I'd finally get the chance to have a go. You see lots of people doing it on the beaches around here, and the conditions are great: warm water, regular sunshine and lots of wind. As it happens it wasn't until Fred said he'd tried it that I finally organised it, with the weather here having turned distinctly autumnal.

The place we went for lessons is on the South coast of the Manukau harbour and has a huge deserted area of waist-deep water. Perfect for learning to be dragged at speed by an enourmous kite. They look big when you see people using them, but they look even bigger when you're attached to one. We've been playing with a 3 square-metre trainer kite for a while, but there's a big step up to the 8m kitesurf kites.

The first lesson is all about learning to control the kite and getting used to the power by "body-dragging" without a board. I got on okay with this so hopefully next time I go I'll get on the board and do some kitesurfing proper.

10th May 2009: Surfing at Muriwai Beach

Mel and Dom returned to Auckland for the last few days of their holiday in NZ, so we spent the weekend with them.

Our travellers had tried surfing at Raglan on their first full day in the country and wanted another attempt. I hadn't managed to try surfing at all yet, despite it being a bit of a kiwi national sport, so I tagged along too. We headed out to Muriwai with two of my accomplished surfer-dude colleagues: James and Ken.

It seems to me that surfing is about spending a lot of time and effort battling out through waves, to be launched briefly back towards the beach. If it goes well you get a short bit of speed and exhiliration, otherwise you seem to drink a lot of seawater. Mostly, it goes badly.

I actually managed to stand up quite a few times (I surfed!) and it was good fun. I might go again!

After the surfing we flew the power kite for a while in the strong breeze, though still not strong enough for blokarts, annoyingly. Sophie's now fixed the kite twice, after we smashed it into the ground during some over-excited and under-skilled flying.

We finished off the day with some large and very delicious steaks at The Jervois Steak House, our favourite restaurant in Auckland. A good end to Mel and Dom's trip, I hope.

24th - 26th April 2009: Rotorua & Kaimai Ranges

Our next set of visitors, Mel and Dom, arrived in town on Wednesday. We spent the weekend with them in Rotorua.

Saturday dawned drizzly, so we went for an epic breakfast at Relish Cafe and stuffed ourselves on their excellent "Bennies". After this, we had an urge to roll down a hill in an inflatable ball, so we headed to Zorb Rotorua. Mel and Dom had a two-person ride while I took the solo zigzag track.

Now cold and wet, we climbed into the car and put the heating on full blast for the short drive to Agroventures. Not nauseated enough by the Zorb, Dom, Mel and I did a Swoop together: a ride where you are winched 40m into the air and then released to swing at 130kph, trussed up in a harness that makes you look like a giant caterpillar.

To conclude our extreme sports for the day, Dom and I raced on the Shweeb. This is a monorail track with a suspended recumbent cycle. Obviously I beat Dom, but only by half a second.

From there we raced to the Sheep Show, which surprisingly was just as good on a second viewing, and then headed to Waikite Valley for a welcome hot soak. Dom and Mel spent the evening at a hangi, while Sophie and I had a delicious dinner at Bistro 1284.

The next morning Dom and Mel headed for Taupo, and Sophie and I went for a rather wet walk in the Kaimai Ranges. Starting on the Waitawheta Tramway, we were hoping to follow the Bluff Stream Kauri Loop Track, but found we would need to make a few knee-deep crossings of fast rivers. Instead we took a loop via Daly's Clearing Hut. My boots leak so I got wet feet anyway...

14th-15th April 2009: Taupo, Orakei Korako and Rotorua

With the wine tasting now over, we finished up our Easter trip up by visiting Taupo and Rotorua with my mum and Ian.

We managed to squeeze in a late visit to Orakei Korako, reputed to be one of NZ's best thermal areas, and it's certainly the best we've seen. Huge silica terraces with boiling water flowing out, a big cave with a hot pool at the bottom and excellent bubbling mud. I've since been told White Island is very impressive too, so that's now on the list.

Our last evening's dinner was memorable. We went to Bistro Lago in the Taupo Debretts resort. This is another Simon Gault restaurant, just like Jervois Steak House in Auckland. He has a certain truffle-loving style that I do seem to get on well with.

The following morning, after eyeing up distant Tongariro and Ruapehu from our B&B, we took in Huka Falls and Aratiatia Rapids and headed to Rotorua. We dropped Mum and Ian at Te Puia for their dose of Maori culture and geysers, while Sophie and I went looking for a walk. We found the very pretty Redwoods forest, just outside Rotorua. Redwoods somehow feel a little out of place in NZ: they're quite unlike any of the native trees, but impressive nonetheless.

To finish our trip we went up the Skyline gondola for a view and a spot of luge. The luge is much more fun than it deserves to be - an experience a bit like skiing but sitting down. Mum took to it particularly well, getting her luge up on two wheels on occasions...

8th March 2009: Blokarts

One of the stands at the boat show was for blokarts: small wind-powered buggies that seem to be the new cool wind toy. They were offering free demos down near Papakura, so we drove down to have a go.

Sophie chases an evil yellow-sailed kart

These things are really good fun and remarkably fast, particularly when reaching across the wind. They're also much more stable than I thought they would be. I'd be pretty keen to own one if only I had a large expanse of sand or tarmac...

A few more photos here.

23rd-26th January 2009: Sydney

The CHP annual partners' dinner was in Sydney, so we headed over for the bank-holiday weekend. We also took the opportunity to visit Sophie's cousin Matt and his wife Celine, who live in Darlington, a suburb of Sydney. Sophie and Matt spent Friday evening catching up on the last 10 years.

It was Sophie's first trip to Sydney, so we set out on Saturday to see a few sights. Unfortunately the weather wasn't cooperating: 42℃ is not an ideal temperature for wandering around. Gusts of wind in the botanic gardens felt like an oven door being opened nearby. Eventually we escaped to the Sydney Shangri La, our CHP-provided hotel for the next two nights.

The CHP dinner was at Guillaume's restaurant, in one of the sails of the iconic Opera House. The seven-course extravaganza was predictably excellent, and the matched wines were also very good.

Sunday was busy. We went for a 15-minute seaplane flight in the morning, giving us excellent views of the harbour, its bridge, and the beaches. After that we met up with a few other CHPers to board the 18-foot-skiff spectator ferry, which follows the fleet during their races. These overpowered sailing boats are excellent to watch, particularly with beer, as their crews struggle to keep them upright and guide them round the course.

After the sailing, we met Matt, Celine and some of their friends on Bronte beach for a relaxed few hours. Tim went for a swim and nearly got carried off by a rip-tide, but all finished well.

Monday was Australia day and Syndey was packed. We had a 3:30pm flight to catch, but we managed to catch sight of the annual Ferrython (a race between ferries, obviously). We also saw some funky close-harmony singing at The Rocks before heading to the airport.

Tim, Sophie, Celine and Matt

More photos, from the seaplane and of skiffs, here.

6th January 2009: Queenstown

After finishing the Kepler Track we took a scenic bus ride (Tracknet are excellent) back to Queenstown for the last night of our holiday.

For our final morning, we took the gondola up to the hills above Queenstown and had a quick go on the highly enjoyable luge, before heading to the airport.

We were back in Auckland by mid-afternoon, marvelling at the sunshine and relative warmth of the city.

29th November 2008: Waitomo Caves

The CHP contingent took a drive down to Waitomo to go caving with the Black Water Rafting Company.

The Black Abyss tour started with a 37m abseil through a narrow hole into a cave, followed by a variety of underground exploration. The glow-worms were beautiful, and we were pleased to find out that the glowing is actually shiny maggot poo. The best bit of the trip was at the end, when we had to climb up a series of underground waterfalls before emerging blinking into the sunlight.

The staff were friendly and good, although not as much fun as "the dude" who took us canyoning in the Waitakeres.

18th-19th October 2008: Skiing on Mount Ruapehu

Drove down to Mount Ruapehu for a weekend's skiing with Claire, Graham, Jane and Brian. It was a bit late in the season: Saturday's weather was cloud and some freezing rain, but on Sunday the sun came out and we had some great spring skiing.

The Turoa ski area, although supposedly one of the largest in NZ, was tiny compared to what I'm used to. There was only one decent lift to speak of! I guess I have been spoilt by the likes of Val D'Isere and Meribel. Still, the slopes were wide and the snow was good. Amusingly there's only 7km (by road) between snow and palm trees. Something to do with having a single big mountain sticking out of an otherwise lush and flat landscape.

We stayed in the Waireka lodge, which was very well equiped and comfortable. A hot tub to relax in after skiing is always welcome.

The mountain is an active volcano, although it's pretty quiet at the moment. No eruptions to report.

3rd-5th October 2008: Rotorua

Finally made it to RotoVegas, after threatening to go about every weekend for the last six.

Stayed two nights in Treks Backpackers, pretty much in the middle of town. Cheap, clean accommodation with a comfy bed and a decent shower, though there were a few comedy reception-desk moments including a 2am phone call checking whether we had arrived safely. Good value at $74 for an en-suite double.

On Saturday we started with a light bacon and egg breakfast in a small cafe, then drove to Te Puia (photos). Saw the impressive Pohutu geyser as well as lots of bubbling mud and a boiling spring in which they were cooking corn on the cob. They have two kiwis in a special dark kiwihouse, where they seem to keep the birds perpetually jet-lagged so they're active during the day. Also saw a Maori cultural show, which was interesting and only a little cheesy.

From there to some thermal pools to swim. We decided to go to Waikite Valley, which looked a bit nearer to nature than the town-centre offerings. It turned out to be a good choice - amazing boiling river feeding half a dozen pools of different temperatures, all in the middle of a beautiful green valley. Much better than Waiwera which was twice the price and more pretentious without being better.

After that exertion we were in need of a slap-up 3-course dinner, provided very competently by Lewisham's in central Rotorua. Delicious food, excellent service, tasty little South African gooseberries. (Oh, and gluten-free walnut cake.)

Sunday started with a feast of a breakfast in the Fat Dog Cafe, which we sorely needed after such a light dinner. Soph had "veggie works", which seemed to contain about 7 eggs scrambled and a kilo of fried potatoes and other goodies. This kept her going without lunch, for about the first time ever.

We then drove to see the blue and green lakes, which turned out to be more green and grey, but perhaps that was due to the drizzly weather. The Buried Village museum was interesting, and had a stunning waterfall in its grounds as an unexpected bonus. There were also some rainbow trout in the river, looking sleek and tasty.

We then headed to the Agrodome for some "extreme fun". Sophie thought the Zorb was silly, but enjoyed it anyway. (You dive into an inflated sphere with a bucket of water and roll down a hill. It is silly.) Finally, we watched the sheep show, which was unexpectedly good and worth catching.

Now we have to sort through 100 photos of bubbling mud and see if any of them caught it mid-bubble... UPDATE: One did!

20th September 2008: Canyoning in the Waitakeres

Went "canyoning" down the Cowan Stream in the Waitakere Ranges. This involved jumping, sliding and abseiling down rocky waterfalls into large pools. Huge amounts of fun, and quite an adrenaline rush: some of the jumps were pretty big. The company we went with, canyonz, refer to this as the Blue Canyon. The guide was a total dude, about the best fit for the word you can imagine. He kept telling us to be careful walking in the river or we'd break our [cue laid-back surf-style voice] leeegs.

The trip was organised by John M and Sophie R, and we were joined by Claire P and Graham. And three amusing Germans.

One of the pools on the way down had a large tame eel in it called Albert. He seemed to enjoy ham from the sandwiches, and made a good attempt on the dude's shoes.

Canyonz also do a trip to the Billy Goat falls in the Kauaeranga valley. One to do later in the year perhaps, although Soph isn't so sure!