Despite the cheesy name, Kelly Tarlton's is actually pretty cool. We had been meaning to go for some time and a day of awful weather provided the opportunity, since the whole place is underground.
Kelly Tarlton (a male Kelly) built the aquarium in 1985 from some old disused sewage tanks, a couple of miles out of Auckland centre. He seems to have been a bit of a pioneer in aquariums, building a domed tunnel in the tank so that visitors have fish on both sides and overhead. Back then nobody knew how to bend sheets of acrylic into curves, so he invented his own method to make the tunnel roof.
Nowadays, in addition to the impressive tunnelled tank, there is an open-topped stingray tank and a penguin enclosure containing a load of manufactured snow, and king and gentoo penguins. All the creatures were impressive and beautiful, but the vast stingrays were the best for me. A keeper gets into the stingray tank to feed them by hand while giving a talk to the audience, and they come and nuzzle her looking for food. When I say nuzzle, imagine a 2m diameter, 200kg beast launching itself up her body so that the mouth on its underside is over her hand holding the food. I only wish we had had a camera with us.
Saturday, 28 February 2009
22nd February 2009: Rangitoto Island and Cornwall Park
Rich vdH and Hilary came to stay for a couple of days at the end of their holiday in NZ, and we took them to Rangitoto Island. It really is a pretty unique place - I get the feeling we will make another few trips there with visitors before we go home.
We gave ourselves three hours on the island, then inevitably packed enough in that we had to get a move on to see it all. This was made more amusing by the fact that Hilary's walking boots had died a few days earlier. When we arrived at the island the soles were not fully attached; by the time we left, one had fallen off entirely and was tied on with the ends of her shoelaces. The boots just about made it back to our flat before being consigned to the dustbin.
After that exertion we went to Cornwall Park for tea in the cafe on the side of One Tree Hill. This is the cafe we found on the coast-to-coast walk, that had its own tea sommelier. Having already eaten a sizeable lunch, we found space for a cream tea all round before a little kite-flying in the park.
We gave ourselves three hours on the island, then inevitably packed enough in that we had to get a move on to see it all. This was made more amusing by the fact that Hilary's walking boots had died a few days earlier. When we arrived at the island the soles were not fully attached; by the time we left, one had fallen off entirely and was tied on with the ends of her shoelaces. The boots just about made it back to our flat before being consigned to the dustbin.
After that exertion we went to Cornwall Park for tea in the cafe on the side of One Tree Hill. This is the cafe we found on the coast-to-coast walk, that had its own tea sommelier. Having already eaten a sizeable lunch, we found space for a cream tea all round before a little kite-flying in the park.
Thursday, 19 February 2009
13th-15th February 2009: Sailing on Waitangi
Tim and I spent another weekend racing classic yachts in Auckland. This time there were three days of racing, in the Southern Trust Classic Yacht regatta, and we were asked to crew on Waitangi, Thelma's sister ship. I joined Waitangi for all three days and Tim for the Saturday and Sunday.
The main difference between Waitangi and Thelma is that Thelma, a couple of years newer and more advanced, always wins the races. I was quite pleased to find we had consistently come third in our class, until I found out there are only three boats in our class... the other being Rainbow. We had a great time anyway, and met the usual selection of new people ranging from novices to those whose full-time occupation is sailing round the world.
Sadly the weather wasn't quite as fabulous as on previous occasions sailing Thelma and we got fairly soaked in both salt and fresh water. When the boat heels over, those who are doing jobs on the lee side can be up to their waist in the wash over the deck. We'll have a word with the weather man and see if next time we can stay a little drier.
The main difference between Waitangi and Thelma is that Thelma, a couple of years newer and more advanced, always wins the races. I was quite pleased to find we had consistently come third in our class, until I found out there are only three boats in our class... the other being Rainbow. We had a great time anyway, and met the usual selection of new people ranging from novices to those whose full-time occupation is sailing round the world.
Sadly the weather wasn't quite as fabulous as on previous occasions sailing Thelma and we got fairly soaked in both salt and fresh water. When the boat heels over, those who are doing jobs on the lee side can be up to their waist in the wash over the deck. We'll have a word with the weather man and see if next time we can stay a little drier.
Tuesday, 17 February 2009
9th-11th February 2009: Taupo
On my way home from the Tongariro Northern Circuit, I spent a couple of days in Taupo. Lake Taupo is bigger than Singapore. It is beautiful, but its size is disappointing in a way; I could hardly see the land on the other side so it was more like being by the sea.
The first day I walked to Huka Falls. They are part of the Waikato river, the only river to flow out of Lake Taupo and the longest river in New Zealand. Near the lake it's immensely clear and blue; at the falls it is channelled into a narrow gap making the most impressive rapids I've ever seen, then rages over a 10m drop. The photo doesn't really do it justice - you'll have to visit it yourself.
Huka Falls
The next day I went for a sail on the lake aboard Barbary, to see some Maori rock carvings. Seemingly I'm destined to find classic yachts wherever I go; this one was built in 1926 and belonged to Errol Flynn, reputedly after he won it in a game of cards.
The first day I walked to Huka Falls. They are part of the Waikato river, the only river to flow out of Lake Taupo and the longest river in New Zealand. Near the lake it's immensely clear and blue; at the falls it is channelled into a narrow gap making the most impressive rapids I've ever seen, then rages over a 10m drop. The photo doesn't really do it justice - you'll have to visit it yourself.
Huka FallsThe next day I went for a sail on the lake aboard Barbary, to see some Maori rock carvings. Seemingly I'm destined to find classic yachts wherever I go; this one was built in 1926 and belonged to Errol Flynn, reputedly after he won it in a game of cards.
6th-9th February 2009: Tongariro Northern Circuit
Following on from the Tongariro Alpine Crossing walk with Tim and CHPers, I stayed on the track for another two days to complete the Northern Circuit. While they walked out to the carpark, I stopped at Ketetahi Hut for the night. This was a fairly interesting place to be for a couple of hours; around 2000 people walked the crossing that day and their exit route goes across the deck at the front of the hut. The few of us staying for the night sheltered inside from sunshine and the hordes of trampers, until the rush quieted down and we could enjoy the usual peace of the backcountry.
This was my first experience of walking alone, and I expected to be somewhat bored in the evenings. I'd packed as light as possible, having no-one to help spread the load, so the big fat novel hadn't made it into my pack. However, the wardens in both Ketetahi hut and Waihohonu hut, where I spent the next night, were much more sociable than the ones we had met on the Fiordland great walks; perhaps because the Tongariro is a much less popular walk, with often only 5-10 trampers in a hut, so it's easier to get chatting in a group.
Walking at dawn
The walking was easy too, largely over flattish scrubland, and I had a great time. One part of the track has black sand and small scrubby plants, and looks for all the world as if it's 50 yards from the shore at Piha or Karekare.
My favourite people of the tramp were a lovely French couple, Jean and Françoise, who have lived in Australia for almost 40 years. They told me enough about their grown-up grandchildren, and daughter's 40th birthday, to make me most impressed that they are still hiking with big packs on their backs. They obviously make a habit of this and have done tougher and longer walks than this one. If I'm half as fit at their age I'll be well pleased.
This was my first experience of walking alone, and I expected to be somewhat bored in the evenings. I'd packed as light as possible, having no-one to help spread the load, so the big fat novel hadn't made it into my pack. However, the wardens in both Ketetahi hut and Waihohonu hut, where I spent the next night, were much more sociable than the ones we had met on the Fiordland great walks; perhaps because the Tongariro is a much less popular walk, with often only 5-10 trampers in a hut, so it's easier to get chatting in a group.
Walking at dawnThe walking was easy too, largely over flattish scrubland, and I had a great time. One part of the track has black sand and small scrubby plants, and looks for all the world as if it's 50 yards from the shore at Piha or Karekare.
My favourite people of the tramp were a lovely French couple, Jean and Françoise, who have lived in Australia for almost 40 years. They told me enough about their grown-up grandchildren, and daughter's 40th birthday, to make me most impressed that they are still hiking with big packs on their backs. They obviously make a habit of this and have done tougher and longer walks than this one. If I'm half as fit at their age I'll be well pleased.
Monday, 16 February 2009
8th February 2009 - Louis Vuitton Pacific Series
With Sophie continuing the four-day Tongariro Northern Circuit, I went over to the North Head to watch some of the America's Cup boats sailing in the Louis Vuitton Pacific Series.
Alinghi leads BMW Oracle Racing up the first beat
There were three races scheduled, and the first one (between two Italian crews) got away on time at about 11am. The wind was dying though, and I spent the next 5 hours or so waiting in blazing sun for the next race to start. They did complete the other two races. The 2nd was between Alinghi (Swiss) and Oracle, and the third was between Emirates Team New Zealand and Team Origin (British). Pleasingly, the British team won.
Team Origin crosses ahead of Team New Zealand
These crews showcase some impressive match-racing skills, maneuvering 25-metre (82-foot) boats to within metres of each other. It's entertaining to watch, although it might be a little bewildering for those who aren't into their sailing. The scoring/ranking system for this event was particularly opaque - check out the wikipedia page.
More photos here, but you'd better like boats...
6th-7th February 2009: Tongariro Alpine Crossing
One of the things remaining on our must-do list was the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, allegedly New Zealand's best one-day walk. We walked to a DOC hut near the start point the night before to get an early start and give ourselves the time to climb one of the volcanos that the main track skirts. This also gave Sophie, newly time-rich, the opportunity to do the full Tongariro Northern Circuit, of which the crossing is day 2. We took a bunch of CHPers along: Alex, James, Luke and Ken.
Day 1 was a late start after the drive down but a short 3-hour yomp took us to the Mangatepopo Hut near the start of the crossing. We had an chilled-out evening drinking some wine, playing cards and watching the sunset.
On day 2 we left the hut at 6:50am with the tops shrouded in cloud. We reached the first saddle an hour or so later, and decided to begin the climb up Ngauruhoe (pronouced Nah-eu-ru-ho-eh or something), a nearly perfect volcanic cone towering above the area. This turned out to be somewhat more challenging than we expected, with about 700m of loose scree and sharp volcanic rocks. The views from the top made it worth it though, as by the time we got there the clouds had cleared completely.
The view from the crater of Naguaruhoe
The remainder of the crossing provided us with views of bright-red craters, emerald lakes and steaming thermal areas; a spectacular collection that really has to be seen in person to be appreciated. Our legs had appreciated enough by the last hour or so of the walk - the volcanic side-trip adds quite a bit to an already substantial outing.
CHPers and a volcano
Having now 'done' Ngaruramaramawhakahoe, next time we'll only have to do the cushy amble to the summit of Tongariro.
More photos here.
Thursday, 5 February 2009
4th February 2009: Le Grand Cirque at The Civic
Kate organised a trip to see Le Grand Cirque, and the usual bunch of around 8 CHPers went along.
The show was similar to Cirque du Soleil (I imagine, having never seen Cirque du Soleil myself). We were very impressed and gasped several times during the evening watching people do things that should be impossible.
Particularly impressive? The double-jointed girl who frequently looked like two halves of a person stacked the wrong way up; the man balancing on a ladder with a couple of ladies standing on his shoulders; an unfeasible number of people on a bicycle; the people who sprinted up and down poles, sometimes using only their hands; the list goes on.
The cast was mostly Oriental and wore polished inscrutable smiles that didn't let you know which the really difficult moves were. The exception was a white girl who swung on a high rope trapeze, periodically yodelling a high-pitched screech. We weren't sure if this was to motivate her or to excite us; I confess I preferred the polished smiles, on the whole.
This is the first time in a long time that any show has ended leaving me wishing it could have gone on for another hour.
The show was similar to Cirque du Soleil (I imagine, having never seen Cirque du Soleil myself). We were very impressed and gasped several times during the evening watching people do things that should be impossible.
Particularly impressive? The double-jointed girl who frequently looked like two halves of a person stacked the wrong way up; the man balancing on a ladder with a couple of ladies standing on his shoulders; an unfeasible number of people on a bicycle; the people who sprinted up and down poles, sometimes using only their hands; the list goes on.
The cast was mostly Oriental and wore polished inscrutable smiles that didn't let you know which the really difficult moves were. The exception was a white girl who swung on a high rope trapeze, periodically yodelling a high-pitched screech. We weren't sure if this was to motivate her or to excite us; I confess I preferred the polished smiles, on the whole.
This is the first time in a long time that any show has ended leaving me wishing it could have gone on for another hour.
Monday, 2 February 2009
31st January - 1st February 2009: Kauaeranga Kauri Trail
We repeated the walk to the Pinnacles Hut, this time taking more people, more wine and more steak. With us were Mark, Nishan, Kate, Stephen and Luke.
Saturday was hot and humid, but the climb up to the hut felt a lot easier than the last time we did it. We arrived at the hut in plenty of time to climb the Pinnacles that afternoon and enjoyed a display of rock-climbing skills by Luke. Later we paddled and admired the reflections in the amazingly calm pools near the hut.
Not far from the Pinnacles Hut
The evening was great fun: there's something very satisfying about having carried wine and steak up a hill, that makes you enjoy it all the more. We timed Stephen (a fell runner by trade) climbing back up to the Pinnacles summit in 8 minutes to get mobile reception to call his girlfriend.
On Sunday we split into two groups. The majority opted for the longer walk back via Moss Creek campsite, while Tim, Sophie and Nishan took the Billygoat track. We had a very relaxed lunch sitting just above the Billygoat Falls (Sophie thinks this may be the best lunch spot ever), while the others bush-whacked their way out. Stephen set off alone on a detour and got properly lost for a while. It's hard to appreciate just how wild this area is as soon as you're off the track: you're many miles from help, and one bit of bush looks exactly like another. Luckily, after some swimming down a stream, he found his way back onto a track and out.
The final swing-bridge over the Kauaeranga river
More photos here.
We'll be sorry if we don't get to visit this area again, but there's so much more to see!
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